Tuesday, May 23, 2023

Trans Am: Week 1



Day 7
What a day. The forecast was rain, which I knew would also mean fog in the mountains. Trying to sleep the night before I had visions of traffic, fog, rain, and steep and slippery ascents. It wasn’t sounding too fun. But all of my worries proved surmountable as the day became a lesson in trusting myself. And in patience. Because it takes patience to ride 3.4 mph for hours!! 

Deidre’s boyfriend Doug dropped us where we left off the day before, and we snuck into a winery to use their bathrooms to start. 


We rode about 10 miles before starting up Afton Mountain. This ascent had such steep switch backs they made you feel you might flip over backwards. This is where I started watching my odometer to see how slow I could go without tipping over. At 3.2 mph I got wobbly and weaved like a drunkard, esp with the weight on the bike, so I settled on 3.4 mph and set the pace for the day. The climb ended with this little church parking lot, which offered  the rare gift of flatness. 


Then onward to reach the blue ridge parkway. Then we rode along the parkway for 30-ish miles. Climbing climbing climbing. The good thing about the weather was no traffic. We had the place to ourselves. I turned off my music and rode through silent fog for miles. Accompanied only by an occasional bird or deer. At one point, an indigo bunting landed in the middle of the road and watched me approach out of the fog. Then he flew into the trees and followed along for a bit. 




Deidre climbing to an overlook




Visibility shrunk to almost nothing. 


After about 25 miles, we reached the crest of the Blue Ridge at 3200 ft. 


Huge relief! Even though we still had miles to go—can’t remember how many, at this point I knew I could do it. From there it was just views and more views. Even when the view was fog. 







Along with the mountain laurel that was surprisingly still blooming, these little pink bloomies were everywhere, more numerous than the miniature orange lizards that crept up onto the road (my father-in-law would correct me that they are red salamanders). 


Then the sun came out! Thankfully so. We mistakenly thought the las 12 miles would be all downhill, but we needed a lesson in reading an elevation chart better. A general downward slope does not mean all downhill. The ups and downs in the last 12 miles were tough—but beautiful in a whole new way.






The ride ended with an incredible 4 mile drop into the town of Vesuvius. It was so wet, steep, and twisty it felt hard to control the bike. I stopped twice to rest my hands and cool my bike rims. 

Finally after 56 miles of riding, we arrived at our Inn: the Osceola Mill. The place was unmanned and empty, so we had to do a self check in. It was historic and cute, but it was also empty, so it proved creepy. When we noticed the light was on in the attic and the door to the attic was locked and marked private we felt like maybe somebody was secretly living up there. 😳


But really, it was cute. 




Best parts of our stay were a space heater that looked like a fireplace that dried our clothes and shoes and gloves and socks and then we loved the Keurig that  gave us hot tea and coffee. Great end to a hard day. And that’s a wrap on Week 1!

Day 6
We’ve had 24 hrs of heaven. I stayed with my friends, beth & Jim riddle last night. After the long day yesterday, they picked me up in Charlottesville and carted me and my pile of gear to their home where they fed me an amazing meal on their porch overlooking the meadow they planted in their backyard. We caught up as a chuck-will’s widow sang a constraint refrain. This was a new bird for me! (Which is the kind of thing that’s exciting when you’re over 50). It has a pretty little song, but let’s be honest, it’s kind of a toady looking bird. After the treat of a 3-Notched beer, I went to sleep in a 4-pillowed bed listening to the many-numbered yips of coyotes. I admit I first thought they were owls and didn’t understand why my Merlin birding app didn’t pick them up. Mistaking dogs for birds strongly suggests I need to work on my wildlife identification skills. 

Beth and Jim on their back deck.

After breakfast, I met up with Deidre and her boyfriend Doug at there hotel and set out for the short ride to Crozet. Doug drove our bags for us because hey, it was supposed to be a rest day!!



With our bikes unburdened, the miles flew by and we found ourselves at a winery. I know—this does not sound like roughing it! Doug then drove us from the route to a friend of deidre’s who put us up for tonight. We are only staying for one night, but this is the pile ‘o paraphernalia we arrived with. 

Doug’s dog Winston guarding our gear. Or at least looking like he is!

If Elena was overwhelmed by the exhorbitante possessions of two people living off their bikes, she didn’t let on. Instead, she fed us and gave us mountains of towels. She even let us use her massage chair, which Deidre loved and I found kind of horrifying.


So we are fed, watered, rested, and in some cases massaged in time for our big day tomorrow. Hopefully it was enough to get us ready to climb Afton Mountain then ascend to the Blue Ridge parkway. Keep your fingers crossed for us! 😬

Distance: 20 miles

Day 5

It was chilly overnight in Mineral—43 degrees—which made us slow to rise. When I did, I ran into a retired mineral fire fighter—Edwin—in the parking lot. I’d yet to change out of PJs or brush my teeth but we chatted for 15 min. about how connected the town feels to the cycling community and how the fire dept has supported cyclists since the first organized TransAm ride in 1976. I could feel that connection in the welcome we received from people who stopped by to say hello and to tell us “ the people of Mineral are thinking about you.” Later, Edwin returned to invite us to breakfast at their Sat. morning soup kitchen. So many nice people. 

We slept about 40 yards from these tracks. When the first of at least 3 night trains came thru, I had to remind myself where we were in relation to them—between the ground shaking, the whistling, and the high-volume clickety clacking, I was sure it would go right over us.


Meeting more new friends along the way.




We were enjoying the rolling fields


when we came to this. 


Heeding the sign meant adding significant miles, so we persisted thru—hoping a cyclist could go where a car could not. 





After that, the cute town of Williamsburg


A long lunch with ingredients scavenged from our bags and from a market in Palmyra



Our first view of the Blue Ridge (if u zoom and squint).


And the “climb” up to Monticello (I’m sure we won’t call it a climb after we start up to the blue ridge parkway on Monday. But it kicked our butts today).


The good news about going up is that u get to go down, and we shot down off Monticello into Charlottesville in a swooping descent that made the whole day worth it.

Distance: 56 miles

Day 4

Today was our first in uncharted territory, so for me it felt like our trip had finally begun. We fueled up at Waffle House, which I was so excited about I dreamt about it. 



Then we set off for Mineral. We climbed our first 7% grade 5.5 miles in, which reminded me of the bananas I bought the night before—which I’d left in a nice (and new) dry bag in our fridge. After my ruined pannier from Day 1, I couldn’t stand the idea of losing another bag, so I U-turned at the top of the hill and raced back to the hotel. At a cost of 11 miles. But I’m glad I did it. 


Today was all VA. Rolling farmland, horses, and wild flowers.







Lunch happened under a tree. PB&J and bananas 


We passed by Lake Anna—at rush hour on a Friday before Memorial Day. Traffic! But still beautiful. 


The boaters made me momentarily jealous, but then I remembered:I’M BIKING ACROSS AMERICA! 


Then I started to feel the miles. The last 5 I could feel the crick in my neck, the hardness of my saddle, my numbing foot. Time to arrive! 


We set up in the mineral volunteer fire department lawn 


and were promptly greeted by residents who came over to say hello, ask about our trip, and make us feel welcome. One woman brought an extra friend—more piglet than dog. 


Deidre’s cute pic

Then it was dinner and our fave: quiet time.


Distance: 56 miles

Day 3

We took our time this morning leaving the comforts of our host church. Started riding at 9:30 and managed to stretch a 38 mile day into 46 and not finish until almost 5. The first 15 miles were straight on the Va Capital Trail into Richmond. Deidre and I were both ready to be off that thing and on to less familiar territory. But it was interesting to see how quickly the country turned to city, with less suburban sprawl. 

One minute we were looking at horses. 


And the next the city was on the horizon. 


We passed this cool bike shop—


We enjoyed the beautiful neighborhoods. 



Then circled for a bit before making our way to Carey Town for lunch. We found a place to satisfy both our cravings: kale and pizza. 


Then a slight delay getting out of Richmond…


Some fun bike art



More circling to find our hotel. Precooked green beans and precut cantaloupe for dinner, then pjs and quiet time!

Distance: 56 miles

Day 2

When I was very young and the urge to be someplace else was on me, I was assured by mature people that maturity would cure this itch. When years described me as mature, the remedy prescribed was middle age. In middle age I was assured that greater age would calm my fever, and now that I am fifty-eight, perhaps senility will do the job. Nothing has worked. … in other words, I don’t improve. In further words, once a bum, always a bum. 

That’s John Steinbeck (I’m no 58 yet!). I first read those words when I was 16, in his memoir Travels With Charlie, and they resonated intensely even then. Just as he said, in the years since, nothing has cured the itch. Even this trip will not cure it as I sense I’ll be planning another as soon as I get home. 

One of our breakfast buddies on Day 1 asked us why we are doing this ride. I needed my buddy John there to explain. What he called “the virus of restlessness” is apparently incurable. 

What’s strange is I’m such a homebody who prefers to be home with my book most nights. So what’s a homebody doing sleeping on the floor of a church in the Virginia countryside? I suppose it’s like all other things we can’t know without their opposites. We can’t know good without bad. Can’t know light without knowing dark. Can’t enjoy the freedom and thrill of the road without appreciating the responsibility and security of home. One shapes the appeal of the other. 

Day 2 was an easy relaxing day that anyone could have enjoyed—itch or no.. Flat terrain, sunshine, 70s with low humidity and only 33 miles. This is also familiar territory as I’ve ridden the Virginia Capital Trail we’re traveling before. 

I was grateful to feel rested because the night before ended badly. While I was watching that sunset, a squirrel chewed a hole thru my brand new waterproof pannier, destroying it on Day1! 

I spent an hour searching for another to be shipped to me—an expensive setback. But then while I was panic shopping online, I accidentally initiated the emergency SOS on my phone. I canceled it but my phone kept sending me a notification about it, which made me question if it was canceled or not. So as I shopped, I kept listening for the sound of a medivac chopper landing in the nearby field to make an unnecessary rescue. The idea filled me with dread.

I slept fitfully, no surprise, and thankfully, the chopper never showed). I woke on the Chickahominy river to a beautiful day. 

I patched my bag in hopes it will keep out any rain until my new one arrives in 2weeks, then we rode west toward Richmond on the fairly new Va Capital trail. 

 

Corn and wheat stretched along much of this area. 



Interwoven with bridges over serene marshland. 



We saw great blue herons, an immature bald eagle and (in the woods) a pair of indigo buntings. 

This rock formation looked like a bust of Cayou, the cartoon character. Zoom in for the face. 


Best part of the day was the surprise hospitality at Willis United Methodist church. We expected to camp on their property, but they welcomed us in where we had access to their kitchen, a shower, and a place to sleep. Woop! 


Thank you David and all the congregants here for supporting cyclists on the TransAm!

Distance: 33 miles

Day 1

Technically Day 0, we arrived at the Hornsby Inn in Yorktown to spoil ourselves for a night. 



In the AM we dipped our tires in the York River. Not the Atlantic I know, but close enough for us.

Our breakfast buddies. And the most amazing waffles I have ever had. 



We must have been nervous to start because Deidre tried to film our departure on her Go pro but had accidentally mounted the camera backwards, so she was filming her shirt. I almost peed my pants laughing-which is a bad way to start when you only have 2pairs of underwear. Then I must have put my pannier on wrong because 5 miles in it popped off when I went over a bump and bounced into the middle of the road! 

Still, we made it to Williamsburg. 



Then back to the trail where we saw a bald eagle and this great blue heron. 





Wind at our back all day (woop!) until we got to camp where it was just whipping off the James river.


Thankfully our tent was comfortable.


Ha! That’s a “glamping” tent in our campground. Complete with a fridge. Our accommodations are a slight downgrade. 



Our first PB&J of the trip!




Great first day! Although as I’m writing this in the dark, some sort of very loud and big bird is squawking by my tent. Pterodactyl? 😬

Day 1: 30 miles (a warm-up day!)

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