Forty-Two Bridges - Key West, FL

Laurie and I hit the road on Saturday, January 19, for Jacksonville, FL. It was freezing at home, so we hoped the cold wouldn't follow us South.

Laurie's Bluetooth and Aux cable wouldn't work, so we had to share headphones in order to listen to podcasts together. Here we are tuned in to Up and Vanished--which turned out to be terrible. But when you have something like 12 hours of driving in front of you, you'll listen to anything.

We spent the night in Jacksonville then got up early for the 4 hour drive to Dave's. Then Dave, Elena, Laurie, and I headed for Miami. I had picked a hotel 15 miles south of the airport to save us some riding time, which was great, but there wasn't much around. It was in an area Claire would call "sketch." We found a local park--Chapman Field Park--where we could take a walk.

The sun set while we were in the park. Later that night would be a full lunar eclipse. I got up at midnight and stood in the wind in the sketch hotel parking lot to see it. It was so cool: directly above us and deep red.

Sun setting on the Biscayne Bay

  We went out to dinner in the nearest restaurant we could find. It was the first of three Italian restaurants we'd eat in all week.

Day One: 52 miles. We rose early and dressed in our warmest clothes - windy and 44 degrees! I brought a left over nut roll for breakfast to kick off the trip. Then we were off!

In front of the hotel before mile 1

Dave didn't pack some of his stuff until the night before, so it was last minute when he discovered his two-man tent was actually a four-man tent! He strapped it to the back of his bike anyway. When he considered wearing his flannel shirt because of the cold, Elena worried he'd look like a vagrant tramping around with all his worldly belongings on the bike.

One four-man tent

We turn off the Dade Trail (along route 1) onto the Black Creek Trail in southern Miami. I was amazed that my cue sheet was accurate! Along this trail Elena pointed out nesting Muscovy, one with chics!

Elena and Dave ride along the Black Creek Trail

A turn onto the wrong side of Coconut Palm road causes us to miss the trail head for the Biscayne trail. It was a fortuitous mistake because it brought us by this crocodile!

We felt like we'd slipped into Jurassic Park. His tail looks like the tail of a triceratops!

There was so much wildlife on the trail that I didn't expect. Alligator, crocodile, turtle, ducks, manatee, birds (herons, anhinga, spoonbill, red wing black birds, pelicans, egret, crane). The trail was rough but everyone (esp. Laurie with her skinny tires) braved the terrain to enjoy nature and avoid the city streets.

It finally started to warm up, and we actually had to drink water!

Looking east over marsh land between us and the Biscayne Bay

Looking north on the trail

All along the trail we came to bridges that went over canals that led straight out to the bay.

We saw all kinds of birds hanging out around the bridges and near the water. Keeping them company were aggregations of manatee (yes, that is the word for a group of manatee!). Manatee usually travel in pairs or alone, but they will meet up informally to share a warm spot. That is apparently what they are doing here. We saw aggregations under almost every bridge.

This cool pic is courtesy of Elena

Elena hanging out with the pelicans and manatee below

We stopped at Biscayne Bay National Park about 12-15 miles into the trip. We were so thrilled to find a working water fountain, open and clean restrooms (the government was shut down), and bikers who gave us advice, shared our garp, and gave us "encouragement."

Arriving at the park

Cool pic Elena!

I send my first palm tree pic home for Claire to see

I had snuck a 5-lb bag of homemade garp into my pannier for us to munch on along the way. We unloaded the first pound at this rest stop.

For a day we were a part of the Miami Bike Scene!

Some of the scenery along this area looked like African plains with the fields of waving grass and tundra appearance. I was glad not to have to worry about anything more than crocodiles coming out of the bush after us.

Laurie braving the gravel

The Biscayne Trail runs along the top of a Levee between the canal and the bay for 15 miles!

The trail ended at Card Sound Road. The bikers at the park warned us that this road was "terrifying." This was the first bit of "encouragement" we got from passersby, locals, and fellow bikers along the trip. But I have to say they weren't wrong. I have no pics because this amounted to 9 miles of 2 lane road with no shoulder and traffic flying by at 55 mph. No cyclist's idea of a relaxing ride.

Just a few miles into the Card Sound Road portion of our trip, we came to the Card Sound Road bridge and Alabama Jacks. When we pulled up, we felt we'd arrived in Key Largo (the sign said so too). There was a deck over the water, live Jimmy Buffet music, and an excellent menu.

Our bikes outside the restaurant

My view down the canal from our table

After we shared a huge conch fritter and ate sandwiches, it was time to brave the bridge. It was short, but steep with no shoulder.

David compared the bridge to a roller coaster where there is a walkway part way up the hill that eventually disappears as you get closer to the top. This bridge had a fisherman's walk about 20 feet up, then just an open railing. Not to mention it was steep after 30 miles of riding with loaded bikes and a conch fritter in our stomachs.

I rode over with Laurie who had to go quickly to keep her momentum. Elena and Dave decided to walk to get over the top, but walking turned out to be scarier than riding because they could feel the bridge moving. Did I mention the cross wind that felt like it would blow you right over the side?

When I turned and saw Dave and Elena crest the hill and descend toward us I teared up a little bit - because I'm sentimental that way.

Dave and Elena leading the cars off the bridge

After the harrowing Card Sound Bridge, we thought we were home free. Ah, what fools we were! We had about 7 more miles of riding on that white line with the traffic zooming past. Card Sound (Rte. 905) was the most dangerous, least interesting, and most exhausting part of the whole trip. I was happy when we turned right and eventually merged with route 1 where we had the path next to the Overseas Highway.

Never happier to see the end of a road!

Key Largo Campground turned out to be about 4 miles further away than I thought (or we had added these miles by taking a wrong turn and riding into the park earlier). Regardless, we thought we had 8 miles left and suddenly it was 12. Everyone took the news in stride and we finally arrived at 5:30pm, just in the nick of time to set up before the sun set.

When we set up, David appeared to have put an undetectable extension charm on his bag (much like Hermione's in The Deathly Hallows). Not only did he have a 4-man tent, he pulled out a lantern, a clothes line, and an extension cord! We were grateful for all of it.

Our camp in order, we walked in the dark to a local pizza place (Italian restaurant #2) then went home and went to bed. We were too exhausted to do anything else.

Day Two: 43 miles. Dave made the comment that our tents were like cocoons. He asked if we would emerge as butterflies in the morning!

The butterfly emerges

Our camp in the morning

Dave and Elena packing up for day 2!

Did I mention this was a really sweet campground? Lots of long term residents. Two greeted us when we checked in. The first was the camp host. He was intent on having us next to him because he knew we'd be quiet. He was rather obsessed with the need for quiet camping. Glad I never ran into him in college! The other was a rather drunk resident who was really excited we made the trip and generous with offering his help if we needed it.

In the morning, we walked to the grocery store for bananas and doughnuts. As we prepared to leave, the camp host recommended a restaurant (Lor-e-lei's) with White Castle-type sliders and an amazing smoked fish dip that he said we'd find down the road. He also suggested we try his invention - some kind of double fast food chicken sandwich. He talked a lot, but who am I to complain about that.

We head out for day 2, leaving tent site 5 at Key Largo Kampground behind

Elena still smiling 10 miles into day 2! 

Now that we were on the Keys, we began to have really pretty views. Bridges over turquoise water and palm trees blowing in the (tail)wind were regular sites.

We actually found Lor-e-lei's! We weren't even hungry after our breakfast of bananas and apple fritters (and then more garp), but we stopped anyway to enjoy the scenery.

Pic courtesy of Laurie

The restaurant was next to a marina. We noticed this on our way to our table. The car says, "nauti-limo."

Our table was right on the beach, and we all could feel the sun on our sunburn from the day before. Yes, none of us applied sun screen on Day 1. It didn't occur to us on that cold and windy morning with all the clouds. But parts of us (especially me) were fried, and everyone's nose was bulbous red.

The view from my seat

We ate more fried conch and the smoked fish dip the camp host had recommended. They were both worth the stop. Dave and Laurie had a Corona, but I had one of my biking headaches, so I was intent on hydrating. No beer for me.

Most of Key Largo offered really nice wide bike trails. With the tail wind, this part of the ride was a real pleasure.

You can see the wind. Thank god it's with us and not against us!

At some point on Day 2, we began to see bridges. They would become a staple. Many were nice pedestrian bridges like this one.

We expected the bridges to be flat, but suddenly we saw this one in the distance.

While Dave and Elena planned a crossing strategy, Laurie decided it would be now or never, so she and I took off. As soon as I started riding I could tell this incline wasn't as bad as it looked, but I had no way of telling Dave because I couldn't turn around on the road. When we got to the other side, I called him, but then he and Elena appeared again over the crest of the hill. Again I cried cheering them on.

It looks like one cyclist, but this is Dave and Elena in single file

Day 2 didn't offer any other surprises. Just more beautiful pedestrian bridges and expansive views.

Around mile 40, we finally arrived in Marathon.

And in Marathon, we knew we'd eventually find the Jolly Roger.  It was a happy sight after our second long day.

This was the easiest campground to book, and now I know why. I thought it was pretty run down. But it served its purpose. We were supposed to camp on the water, and the view from that site was perfect, but it was WAY too windy for that. Everything we owned could have ended up in the water. So we retreated to a not great sight (who knew they had rocks in Florida?) and set up camp.

Setting up camp

Again we had little time for anything else but dinner. We walked to the only nearby restaurant which happened to be great. It was called The Wreck.

After a brief wait, we sat down to eat and remember the day.



Later, we squeeze in a card game (Golf) on our picnic table. This is a sign that our camp sight was protected from the wind and that we had a little more energy than the night before! Elena was the big winner on this night, but we forgot to keep a running tally of the scores.

Day Three: 39 miles. After a terrible night's sleep, we all rose to face the 7-mile bridge. A cyclist had stopped by to talk to us the night before and offered encouraging words (for real). Except his mention of all the head-on car accidents that happen on the bridge.

We set out without eating breakfast because our understanding was that the bridge is at MM57. We didn't know yet that we were wrong. It was actually 12 miles away at MM47. Our plan was to ride the 2 miles to the bridge, cross, then relax and eat a great breakfast.

We rode and rode and the bridge didn't materialize.

Dave is working the Go-Pro for the crossing.

Finally we looked at our map and figured it out (after all, you can't make a wrong turn in the Keys, you'll end up in the ocean). When we realized how far we had to go, we stopped for a quick breakfast of champions: Doritos and Dr. Pepper.

Dave "relaxing" 

While eating our snacks, a very drunk and smelly man came by to wish us well. He said, "Are you riding to Key West? I hope you're not going on that suicide road over there!" Yup. We were. He smelled of cigarettes and stale beer. Elena reported that his toenails were horrible dirty daggers. He was covered in a thick brown film--it seriously covered his clothes and skin and hair. I was sad for him when he emerged from the store at 9am with a six pack of beer under his arm and a cigarette between his fingers.

Another guy came by to ask about distance cycling. He was worried about riding in traffic but was inspired by us. We hoped we would live up to that.

Then there was nothing left to do but ride off toward the bridge.

Thanks for the pic, Laurie.

View from the park at the entrance to the bridge

Team terrified gathering the nerve to cross

We'd heard there are head-on crashes, speeding traffic, a low barrier between us and the water, debris on the shoulder, and a high likelihood of flat tires. We ignored all that. We also ignored the little round signs before each bridge that said: Drive Safely. In Memory of [insert name of dead person]. What's to worry about?!

Entering onto the 7 mile bridge

Immediately it was just beautiful. Funny how no one mentioned that part. Elena and I saw an Iguana scurrying up the barrier trying to get over. We were both more worried about him than us.

You can see the "hump" we must cross rising in the distance

On top of the hump, I couldn't take pictures because the tail wind got a little wonky. My bike felt like it was in a twister, the wind coming and going from every direction. But we all held on and coasted down the other side. Once off the top, the tail wind was so strong I felt like I was being scooped and flung along. I hardly pedaled and we crossed in less than 30 minutes.

The old bridge next door

We celebrated in the park just after crossing.

Everyone wanted a picture on the pedestrian walkway that is adjacent to the bridge (it doesn't go all the way across).

Once we crossed, it was time to hit Bahia Honda State Park. I had really hoped we could stop to swim here, but the wind was too strong. We walked around instead and enjoyed the views.

Thanks for the pic Elena!

There is an old trestle bridge in the park that has been converted into a walkway. I went here with the fam a few years ago, so I revisited the sight of our Christmas picture.

I'm pretending to be in a cool Dr. Pepper commercial, but don't pull it off very well.

Views from the trestle bridge looking down at the park and the bridge we will soon cross.

Looking up at the trestle bridge from the beach.

We rode over more bridges with more amazing views on our way to Big Pine Camp Ground.

            

Big Pine is home to the famous Key Deer. We were hoping to see some.

 

We arrived at Big Pine Fishing Lodge but didn't notice, so we added four miles to the ride by overshooting our destination by 2 miles. Everyone was HUNGRY. Because of our weird morning schedule, we never really ate a good meal during this day. And everyone had been working hard.

We set up camp quickly so we could get out to eat before low blood sugar turned all of us into monsters. This time, we took the waterfront site despite the wind, because hey, it's a waterfront site! Laurie and I worked together to get our tents set up without them blowing into the water.

After just a bit of searching in town, we found a restaurant. We had to ride our bikes this time, and we were tired. So it was a little touch and go - you know, looking for food at the end of a long vacation day can get hairy! But here it is!

Laurie and Elena each got a huge bowl of seafood pasta, Dave ordered fish and chips, and I settled on a huge fat seafood quesadilla. We were all very very very happy to be resting and eating.

I can see the tiredness in everyone's eyes! 

Back at camp, we swam in the pool, sat by the beachfront bonfire, then did laundry and braved the Big-0 birthday party (a camp ground affair) to play cards in the common area. They had a DJ playing oldies in the background while we dealt cards and ate M&Ms.

I think this is Elena's pic since I see Laurie's foot in the corner! (cool pic - so windy!)

Because the party-goers were using all the tables and chairs, we made do with bar stools. Look, Laurie and Elena turned over Kings on the first move!--And Dave almost has three 2s in a row! 

Thanks for pic Laurie!

It was windy on the water, but by now I was getting the hang of sleeping in my tent. I enjoyed laying in my cocoon and listening to the wind in the palm trees outside. On the way back from the bathroom after a late-night pee, our camp ground was quiet and serene in the moonlight.

In the morning, I enjoyed the view from my tent.

David and I noticed Laurie took the bag of peanut M&Ms to bed with her. They showed through the wall of her tent in the morning!

Nice pic Elena 

I think Laurie took this one

It's already time to pack up from Big Pine and head for Key West.

Elena noticed a horseshoe crab stranded in the weeds after all the wind the night before. She carried him back to the water.

Celebrating as the crab swam away

Pelicans visit our campsite - pic courtesy of Laurie

Day Four: 29 miles. After changing the most convenient flat tire ever (it happened in camp just before we headed to breakfast at a restaurant we knew was next to a bike shop), we pulled out of the camp ground. One woman said, "Ride safe on that dangerous road!" while another said, "There goes some smart ladies," with a knowing shake of her head. Did she think we were cool and independent or did she think we were sister wives with our shared husband and daughter?

We found three types of folks commenting on our trip: those that said they could never do it, those that wish they'd done it, and those that have done it. I'm glad to be in the last camp!

As we pulled onto the road from Big Pine, Laurie spotted our first and only Key Deer. We saw them for a fleeting moment in the road, then they disappeared. Lucky!

Our send off pic from Big Pine (which Elena notes doesn't have any big pines near it at all!).

For breakfast, we stopped at a Cuban coffee shop for Cuban bread and coffee. No ice, however, so Dave and Elena had to forgo their ice coffees. :(  We ate after putting some extra air in Elena's tire at the bike shop and purchasing "Gas Sucks. Ride a Bike" t-shirts from the not-at-all shy bike shop guy.

Enjoying Cuban bagels, mochas, coconut pastry, and a coke!

Back to the road over water, under palms, and through the wind. Laurie counted 19 bridges that we would cross that day.

Parts of the trail deviated from the road. We hoped to see the Key Deer in these parts, but no luck.

I thought the bike seat and handlebars on this figure looked like a cat standing on the bike wheels. Weird how the eyes turn things around.

I didn't mention that in our first five miles in Miami, we saw a dead (or unconscious) iguana on the sidewalk. These two guys were very alive, sunning themselves on the windy day. The one in the distance ran away, but the one in the foreground stuck around for a photo shoot.

Thanks Elena for sneaking up to snap this pic!

At last we arrived at Boyd's Camp Ground.

Founded in 1963, it's changed a bit since then!

We stayed here for 2 nights so we could enjoy Key West.

Our camp site was again on the water, but we were protected by the campers around us and the topography, so the wind was less of an issue.

After we set up, the cold front we'd been expecting rolled in. It brought drizzle, wind, and cooler temps.

Elena is taking pics of the picture takers. Love it.

The view behind our tents (water on all sides)

The view from inside my tent.

After we set up camp, we rode up the road for Italian restaurant #3! We were hungry because that 5-lb bag of garp disappeared the day before. After we recovered from the crisis of ordering the wrong color wine, we settled in for a delicious dinner. Except I can't remember what we ate beyond desert.

Dave & Elena's nutella and strawberry pizza. (Laurie and I had cannoli. Yum!)

Our campsite at night (Elena pic)

We had a night of rain. Dave and Elena's tent leaked. Elena said she woke up with her feet all wrinkly from sitting in water! Ugh. That is no way to sleep. I felt a little guilty because my tent was so snug, it was my best sleep yet. In the morning, we watched the weather and snuck out to Key West in between rain clouds.

Arriving in Key West proper.

When we arrived at MM0, we were dismayed to see there was a line to take your picture at the Southernmost tip if the U.S. Whoever heard of such a thing? Dave would rather snap a pic from further away, but I was a little fascinated by the self-imposed order that was happening. Also, who were all those people? Dave speculated that a cruise ship had just unloaded.

Dave's pretending to be annoyed with all these people face

Yup. We made it!

The view towards Cuba (I think)

Random cool house in Key West

We found our breakfast place. Hurray!

I made the group sneak this picture of a MM0 sign that is a restaurant prop. Apparently there was no real MM0 sign. Bummer!




After breakfast, we stopped by the aquarium. It was pretty cool, but part of the outside exhibit was destroyed in the hurricane. Later, cookies because why not eat when it's overcast and windy outside!?

Pic courtesy of Laurie or Elena. Not sure. :/

Because everyone needs a pic of Sloppy Joe's

When we returned to our bikes, the chickens had taken over, finding a nice place to nest! (Thanks Laurie for these chicken pics!)

Love this pic. It captures the whimsical, colorful, and a little run-down feeling of the town.

Elena snapped the below two pics through her glasses to accentuate the blue hue. If you look closely, you can see birds flocking on the left in the first one. They are being fed by people who are out of the frame. In the second, look to the right of the tree and you'll see a rooster running to get a piece of the action!

A close up. We laughed so hard.

And then it was time to pick up the rental car. We decided to get it a day early so that Dave and Elena could sleep in it instead of their leaky tent. And Elena's mattress had deflated.

Riding to the airport

Maybe we overdid it on the 12-person van? Not sure. But it was good to have it for the sleep factor at the very least. Still, we decided not to take it into town, so Laurie got us a Lyft and we headed to Blue Heaven for dinner. It had a cool outdoor area with live music, but we didn't have warm enough clothes. All of us were chilly and wanted a cozy spot to eat, so we hunkered inside.

Later, I lay in my tent and listened to the wind. I'd been dreaming there was a big storm and my tent was keeping me dry, but when I woke, it was just the wind--no rain.

The great white van all packed up.

All that time sleeping in a tent, Laurie apparently forgot the proper use of a pillow!

And that was it - amazing company! Amazing trip! 

Oh - can't forget the horrible Cracker Barrel dinner on the way home. After parting ways with Dave and Elena in Miami, Laurie and I drove as far as we could. This was all we could find to eat along the way before stopping in Hardeeville for the night.

Distance: 180 miles
MPH: We did it in Key West time.